8' Shade Structure

Mark, label and cut lumber in order of SS-1 to SS-4 to the lengths in the cut list. SS-3 and SS-4 are cut to a rough length here and trimmed to their final, exact size on site in step 5 — don't cut them down further until then.

Check each piece of lumber for imperfections such as cracks, warping or uneven milling, and discard those portions of lumber.

• Label each piece of lumber as you measure and cut it.
• Keep a separate pile of lumber for SS-1 to SS-4.
• Lightly sanding the cut edges removes splinters and helps with assembly.
• Building more than one shade structure? A stop block on your miter saw keeps every piece the same length.

Stack one SS-2 on one SS-1, aligning one side flush and leaving a 3.5" gap on the other side. This forms the first leg of the trellis.

Use the pre-drilling guide at the end of the packet to pre-drill your screw holes, then secure the two pieces with 2 screws at one end, 2 at the other end, 2 in the middle, and 2 more equally spaced between an end and the middle — 10 screws per leg.

Repeat 3 more times, with 3 more SS-2 and SS-1 pieces and 30 more screws, to build all four legs.

To connect legs into pairs: secure one SS-1 across the top of two legs, slotted into the 3.5" gap, with 8 screws (4 per leg). Repeat with the other two legs.

• The first two steps can be done on level ground before standing anything up.
• Check each side stays at 90 degrees with a carpenter's square.

Flip the leg pairs over. Using two SS-1s on one side of the trellis, add braces, using a spare 2x4 to set an even 3.5" gap between the top leg brace and the new braces below it — 4 screws per brace, 8 screws total for this side.

Repeat on the other set of legs with two more SS-1s and 8 more screws.

Stand the legs up.

• Check each side stays at 90 degrees with a carpenter's square.

With the legs standing, connect the two leg pairs with two SS-1 top cross beams, checking all sides are at 90 degrees, and secure each corner with 4 screws (8 screws for this step).

Add long braces along one side using two SS-1s, again using a spare 2x4 for an even 3.5" gap below the top cross beam (4 screws per brace). Repeat on the other side.

• The remaining steps need a ladder to reach the top of the frame.
• Check each side stays at 90 degrees with a carpenter's square.

Measure the distance between your two posts where each SS-4 interior brace should go, cut the SS-4 piece to that exact size for a snug fit, and secure it to the SS-1 piece behind it. Repeat for all 4 interior long-side brace pieces, securing each with 8 2.5" screws placed in pairs at equal intervals (32 screws total).

Do the same for the SS-3 interior braces on the short sides: measure, cut each to a snug fit, secure to the SS-1 piece behind it, for 4 interior short-side brace pieces and 32 more screws.

• Use clamps to hold the wood in place while you secure it.

Use one SS-1 piece to create a top brace support, equally spaced in the center of the frame.

Secure it with 4 self-driving exterior wood screws.

• Use clamps to hold the wood in place while you secure it.

Use SS-1 pieces for the canopy. Using a spare 2x4 as a spacer, secure each SS-1 canopy board from one side of the frame to the other (right to left).

Secure the lumber with an impact driver and 75 2.5" self-driving exterior wood screws, then secure the remaining SS-1 canopy pieces with 70 more screws.

Align the last piece with the frame so there's no overhang — it's fine for the last piece to be narrower than 3.5" if needed to fit.

Lightly sand the rough edges of the shade structure.

Place an L bracket on the inside of each post and secure it with a 1/2" x 2" lag screw.

Place an 18" J hook through the bottom hole of each L bracket and hammer it into the ground with a 5 lb hammer.

• If the shade structure sits next to a wood-topped gabion bench, it's best to use the L brackets and lag screws to bolt the trellis legs directly to the bench instead.
• If a post lands in a planting bed, set it on a concrete deck block above the soil for stability and to reduce wood rot — dig the block in so it's level with the other posts.

Cut out the pre-drilling hole guide along the dotted lines. When drilling, align the edge of the template with the outside edge of the lumber before pre-drilling.

Not all holes are used — not all patterns use the template. Use the assembly steps above for your hole guide. Keep all holes about a thumb's width from the edge (about 1"), even holes that don't use this template.